Ready and Roam / Western Cape, South Africa
Where and Why?
South Africa | The Western Cape: Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Hermanus.
The Western Cape is a province of South Africa with coastal land on both the Indian and Atlantic oceans. The vibrant capital city of Cape Town is set near Table Mountain National Park and offers a wonderful combination of history and culture. Farther inland, in less than 30 minutes, you can find centuries old wineries, incredible vistas and the Cape Dutch villages of, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Southeast two hours from the "the mother city" is the seaside town of Hermanus, known for whale watching and cage diving with great white sharks. Additionally South Africa, has more than 300 game reserves and some of the finest Safari outfitters on the continent. Although the country is steeped in a history of struggle and turmoil, its warm, friendly people embrace their past and talk openly about politics, apartheid and poverty.
Plan
GO: Think about planning a visit outside of June - August. I like to equate the climate on the Western Cape to that of San Francisco, which has the same parallel longitude, albeit the opposite hemisphere, and therefore seasons. Specifically, the fringe springtime months of September, October and November are wonderful to visit, when the coastline offers cooler evenings and a crisp daytime breeze. This is also when the whale watching is at it’s best. The following summer months of December through February, have a lot to offer as well. This is when the days are the longest and the temperatures the warmest. The wintertime fall,s June through August and can be chilly with higher ocean winds and consistently cooler temperatures. The average daytime high is still in the mid 60's in the Winter, so I'd worry more about the rain than the cold. We visited in September to allow for a safari prior to our time on The Cape. Prime safari season in Krueger National Park is the dry winter & spring months of June through October.
“Although I generally don’t like to visit the same place twice, this area is an exception. I would return in a heartbeat!”
If you are trying to save on airfare consider a stop in Johannesburg (JNB). Flying from JNB to Cape Town (CPT) is usually less expensive than flying direct to Cape Town from outside of South Africa. If you are a Delta snob like me, you can fly direct from Minneapolis MSP or Chicago ORD to Amsterdam, and from there to Johannesburg. To give you an idea of costs we paid $1,400 pp to Cape Town from Minneapolis with 3 stops. That said, South African Airways is a truly wonderful airline, they are part of the Star Alliance (which includes United). Often in the fall they offer “Africa on Sale from $850,” with a similar number of stops. While you want to be thoughtful when you are flying 22 hours away, at the end of the day there isn’t that much of a difference in flight time to make a few stops. United will launch a direct Newark to Cape Town flight this December. If you want to keep your eye on prices from an extensive list of airlines, we suggest using Momondo to run a free on-line search.
A word on logistics, A visa is issued on arrival for US passport holders traveling to South Africa, the only requirement is two (2) consecutive blank visa pages.
It’s important to always make sure you are up to date on your vaccinations and check the CTC website for areas of outbreak. Specifically you may choose to get a Yellow Fever vaccination and some malaria pills but consult a travel clinic if you have concerns. I always recommend, Passport Health and ask about a prescription in case of tummy problems abroad.
If you are looking for affordable and reliable Travelers Insurance we are well informed on policy choices from Allianz, and Travelex.
Check out The Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) which is a free service that allows U.S. citizens and nationals traveling and living abroad to register their trip with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate.
Learn
South Africa's flag is the only flag in the world that has six colors and no icons. The country has eleven official languages and most of it’s people are bilingual, in fact the national anthem is commonly recited in five languages. Don’t worry they all speak English. The people of South Africa tend to affectionately abbreviate the names of their cities as a form of common ground. The first and most prevalent is the use of Jo'burg for Johannesburg. Furthermore, Durban is known locally as Durbs, Port Elizabeth as P.E., Pietermaritzburg as 'maritzburg and Jeffrey's Bay as J Bay.
Stay
Cape Town,More Quarters Hotel / direct booking
Because there were seven of us, we stayed at the stand-alone property, the Red Cliffe House, just up the street from the 22 apartments offered at the hotel. We enjoyed a private home but took advantage of the amenities at the hotel, including their breakfast, wifi, driver and lounge. The More Brands has another property in Cape Town called the Cape Cadogan Boutique Hotel. This elegant, grand old house has more standard room types.
Welgelegen Boutique Guest House / book here for a free bottle of wine
Like many of the overnight accommodations available in Cape Town, this property operates like a traditional B&B but calls itself a hotel. 13 well-appointed, affordable rooms in a historic and traditional home. In the same vibrant Gardens neighborhood as the Redcliffe House at More Quarters, this is where I’d be if they were sold out.
Cape View Clifton / price guarantee reservations
This boutique property is part of Rare Earth group, which offers several amazing rentals across South Africa. This particular beach house is perched on the slopes of Lion Head and offers uninterrupted views of Cape Town’s iconic Clifton and Camps Bay coastline. The home’s seven, adults-only suites can be rented individually, or you can book the entire house.
Rtip: You will find it’s common to come home to your overnight accommodations and discover a hot water bottle, under the covers, at the foot of your bed. This is commonly referred to as a “bush baby,” and it’s a delightful surprise customary in many high end establishments throughout South Africa as well as on safari in Botswana.
Wine Country, Delaire Graff, in Stellenbosch / website
Because we were staying in wine country to celebrate our 15 year wedding anniversary we opted for the prestigious Delaire Graff. Owned by the head of an international diamond company, you can imagine the high-end service, impeccable grounds and of course the price tag$$. Considering you are treated like celebrities, and the accommodations are luxurious as they are, the price is actually very fair. If our budget allowed we would stay there again, and we’d even feel comfortable bringing the kids. They went above and beyond and everything about our stay was truly spectacular. Make sure to go home with a Cab Franc Rose and a Chardonnay.
RTip: Another high end property for an overnight splurge is La Residence. The rooms are palatial but really comfortable. Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel you can still arrange to have drinks on the property to take in the views while watching the sun set and the peacocks roam.
La Clé des Montagnes, Franschhoek / book here for an additional incentive
On a return trip we would opt for a lower key property at a more modest rate. In fact we would likely stay in Franschhoek over Stellenbosch. This property is top of the list with only 15 rooms, settled across a spectacular South African farm. The owners offer everything you could possibly need, including bicycles, swimming pools, green space and a farm fresh breakfast. La Clé is intimate and idyllic in every way.
Hermanus, The Marine Hermanus / book here
The best part about this property is the sprawling yard that runs cliffside along the coast. We literally whale watched from the lawn, breeze at our backs, Pinotage in hand, every single day. The restaurant, pool area and spacious rooms, felt quaint and lovely, more like an inn than a larger hotel establishment.
One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel / book here
If you are looking for a smaller property this boutique hotel is a gem. Seaside, in great proximity to the cliff walk area and village shopping, each room has a balcony and a view of the bay. It’s here you can feel like you are staying in a private home.
Grootbos / check rates
If you are are a naturalist, into eco lodges or would like a single place to take in the area’s extensive beauty, Grootbos is a wonderful option. Just a little further south of Hermanus this resort sits on the other side of Walker Bay Nature Preserve. It offers a range of experiences and accommodations. In fact if you are not into spending a couple days in wine country, this is a wonderful alternative, with culinary and wine experiences on property.
Explore
Coastal living along the cape is both expansive and quaint. The capital city of Cape Town is vibrant, its people stylish and its food sophisticated. Less than an hour inland, you’ll find a wine region that is so unimaginably picturesque and extraordinarily affordable. Suggestions below highlight bits and pieces from the following three areas: Cape Town, Stellenbosch / Franschhook and Hermanus. While Uber is available in Cape Town, you’ll need to rent a car or hire a driver to venture further. We spent 10 days in this area; 4 nights in Cape Town, 2 nights in wine country and 3 nights in Hermanus.
In Cape Town, Table Mountain / website
Known as the majestic backdrop to the city of Cape Town, Table Mountain is an icon hard to miss. While outdoor enthusiasts can hike 3,500 feet to the top, the aerial cable car was sufficient for us. The five minute ride is a wonderful way to reach the top quickly, whether it’s is to grab a beer at the cafe, leave time for exploring the nearby Kirtenbosch Botanical Gardens, or simply to take a “king of the mountain” selfie for Instagram. Keep in mind that even if you pre-buy your cableway ticket you will likely need to stand in line when it’s busy (on a clear day or at sunset). The wait-times are posted on the website regularly so don’t worry.
RTip if you’re after an incredible hike, consider nearby Lions Head mountain instead. The relatively moderate two hour hike winds around the peak with dramatic vistas at every turn. You’ll find spectacular views that include Capetown, Robben Island as well as Table Top mountain itself. There is a nice article linked here that explains exactly the best ways to hike Lions Head.
Robben Island / website
Only five miles off the coast of Cape Town you’ll find a living museum inside the notorious prison that once held Nelson Mandela. If you enjoy preserved exhibits of history this is a great choice, but be prepared for a ferry ride and bus tour of the island before getting inside to explore the prison. The whole experience will take a good portion of day, and the tour sells out frequently so booking in advance is essential.
RTip is to pair your experience at Robben Island with a visit to the District Six Museum where they have memorialized the physical hardships endured by a community of people forcefully evicted by their government in the 1970s when internal resistance to apartheid intensified.
Cape Peninsula Day Trip / website
The “Cape of Good Hope” is actually the furthest place you can reach on the Southwestern side of the continent. You can arrange a day trip to explore the entire area and let me tell you it’s a “must do.” You’ll drive along the rocky Atlantic seaboard, from the Clifton beaches of Camps Bay to the majestic Cape Point. You’ll stop to ride an incredible funicular to the famous lighthouse and take in the magical vistas of False Bay. After that you’ll head to the most charming little fishing ports and seaside havens. Most tours will include a visit to Boulders Beach to see the African Penguin colony. I suggest a private guide, which you can customize to your liking, using Wilderness Safaris.
"The views are unparalleled at Cape Point, where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet”
RTip if your trip to Cape Town doesn’t include a separate excursion into Wine Country, consider visiting De Grendel Winery for a tour and a meal within 30 minutes of downtown.
In Wine Country,South Africa is the 9th largest wine producing country in the world, and the district of Stellenbosch is the second oldest wine region in South Africa. Be sure to try South Africa’s signature Pinotage grape varietal as well as the country’s Cap Classiques – which is South Africa’s answer to Champagne. We found this particularly delicious at Môreson. Bottle prices are kept down to keep wine affordable for the South African people. Our two day itinerary included the following wineries. While we hand picked the wineries ourselves and then booked a driver from Wilderness who provided additional knowledge and suggestions along the way.
Day 1
We tasted in and around Stellenbosch. Our favorites were Meerlust & Muratie. We made stops at Babylonstoren and Tokara (sauv blanc). Afterwards we did a little shopping in Stellenbosch town.
Day 2
We visited Cabriere, La Motte, and Môreson for tastings in Franschhoek and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the grounds at Boschendal.
Keep in mind that if you hire a “driver” for navigating the South African wine country, you are asking for much more than a driver. The standard assumption is to provide a concierge guide with extensive knowledge in wine making, relationships with wineries and a trained palette. A word to the wise, your “driver” will expect to keep you company at all times. As opposed to a “car hire” in California’s wine country, where your driver is just that. If you want privacy, I suggest you make that request known upfront.
Another important thing to be aware of is that ordering wine from the wineries directly is the same as ordering it from a distribution center in the states, including the price tag that goes with it. This also means that most of the time, the wine you are tasting is only available on-site. I suggest you carry home with you as much wine as you can manage in your luggage.
In Hermanus,Whale Watching / website
Typically the whale watching season in South Africa is between June and December and Hermanus is one of the best spots on earth for it. Peak season is September and October when the number of Southern Right whales found in the area reaches saturation. During this time, you can walk the cliffs to see the whales, often without a set of binoculars. Because of easy viewing onshore, and the motion sickness I experience on boats, we did not look into any boat tours. However, we were recommended, Southern Right Charters.
Fernkloff Nature Reserve, Grootbos
The rocky coastline in this area is spectacular, but so are the inland area and nature preserve. Having featured Proteas prominently in my wedding, I know that September is the time when these flowers bloom in South Africa. If you are visiting during that time and you enjoy mother nature, you should find time to enjoy a beautiful and serene walk in Grootbos.
Cage Diving with Sharks / website
As I mentioned, I don’t do boats. My husband and brothers, however, do. This experience was top of their list and after a one day weather postponement, they were able to check off this bucket list item. The only advice they shared was to be sure to let others go first so that the chum has time to attract the sharks before you get in the water.
RTip: If you are not much for boats (or diving or sharks) check out the Creation Wines tasting room. While your fellow travelers risk their lives on the sea you can be drinking wine in the sunshine. This winery is only 10 miles out of town and worth a stop even if you’ve exhausted the rest of the countries wine region. They offer a kid tasting with nibbles for experimenting and plenty of space for the kids to chill.
Shop
Greenmarket Square / details
If you like a good flea market, this is Cape Town’s best example. If you don’t like sorting through the junk vendors to find vintage treasures, you can wander off to one of the many restaurants nearby to people watch instead.
Cape Markets, Hout Bay / website
At waters edge you’ll find a once abandoned warehouse, now home to a weekend market filled with local artisans, food and crafts.
Main Street in Hermanus
There are a handful of great shops in Hermanus, mainly concentrated around Main Street. I would say Beach House Home and Lembu Gallery are both can’t miss for the housewares and art. Amulet was also a hit for my tween daughter who bought leather bracelets and small gifts for her friends back home. My bohemian brothers ventured off to find treasures and vintage clothing at Romantiques and Funky Vibes nearby. Certainly something for everyone here.
Devour
In Cape Town, Pot Luck Club / website
This place gets a lot of press and for good reason. They have only two dinner seatings so book early. The innovative menu is utterly delicious and with all the sharing plate options you are bound to over order. We also ate at the sister restaurant Short Market Club, where the most memorable part of the meal was the incredible oysters.
Societi Bistro / website
Admittedly their website is overwhelming and seemingly commercial, but really this place is a simple bistro in a great neighborhood. It’s low-key, cozy and the seasonal menu has something for everyone.
Codfather / website
Seafood is king at this awesome fish market restaurant. I would not go if you aren’t a fish, sushi or shellfish lover, although they have a select few options.
Clarke’s / website
I didn’t want to leave out a suggestion for daytime eating. We are big brunch fans in my family and this place is awesome. The kind of food and cocktails I’d eat if I only had one meal a day. All day breakfast, scratch made sandwiches, decadent burgers and spicy Bloody Marys.
In Wine country,My husband and I like to picnic in the wineries whenever possible and save the eating out for dinnertime. The best on-site picnic options we found were at Babel at Babylonstoren and at Boschendal. If you want to make your own picnic, I suggest the De Warenmarkt in Stellenbosch where you’ll find a butcher for charcuterie items, as well as a grab-and-go deli. In Franschhoek, it’s Schoon’s Bread Cafe for picnic supplies like local cheese and cured meats.
Schoon Eateries / website
In my opinion Schoon has really cornered the market on where to eat breakfast. They are like the Bouchon of South African wine country. They do mornings right with items like brioche french toast, soft scrambled eggs on sourdough, and a croque madame made with a pork loin and a gruyere bechamel sauce. Are you kidding me?
Basic Bistro / website
The one lunch we had outside of a winery picnic was at Basic Bistro and as a big sandwich lover this place was a hit. They offer a number of open faced and wrap options, including a delicious chicken with rocket greens, fried onions, Danish feta, roasted cherry tomatoes and mayo. It’s always booked up for dinner so I imagine they do a nice job there as well.
Foliage, Franschhoek / website
The only dinner restaurant we can attest to in Franschhoek, is Foliage. This place is an outstanding farm to table bistro with delicious courses, wines and desert. After a couple high end dinners out in Capetown and at Delaire Graff, we found Foliage to be the perfect intimate night out.
The Green Goose Eatery, Stellenbosch / website
The only dinner restaurant recommendation we can make in Stellenbosch, is The Green Goose Eatery. This place is super simple and there is something for everyone so we’ll be back next time with kids. My husband likes to be able to get a solid craft cocktail after a day of wine tasting and there was no making a mistake here. Be sure to try several small plates to start and don’t forget desert.
In Hermanus, Hermanus is a small town, so the dining options are relatively low key. Seasonal blackboard menus can be found at both The Barefoot Cook (highly recommended) and the Fisherman’s Cottage near the Harbour. You’ll find most restaurants situated along the Old Harbour will feel a bit touristy however the Burgundy Restaurant is not a bad option with its waterfront terrace, fresh seafood and tapa’s menu alternatives. Because it was the end of our trip and we have younger kids, we actually went out for pizza twice at Rossi's Italian Restaurant and it was perfect. We got to know the staff and learned what warranted a repeat visit.
Sip
You will want to be aware that a “sundowner” is like a happy hour cocktail. According to google, it’s an informal British term for an alcoholic drink taken at sunset. Common on safari but also in other areas of S.A. where an afternoon libation might be warranted.
The Willaston Bar inside what was once a grain silo, offers the most magical views of Cape Town. This library lounge on the 6th floor of the Silo Hotel is a wonderful spot for a craft cocktail and some down time.
Take
The essentials for South Africa included packing cubes, binoculars and zip off pants for the kiddos. I always travel with a giant purse, blanket wrap, sneakers, and an eye mask. And when I expect to do a lot of shopping, I pack this "go to" compact duffel from Columbia that converts into a durable second checked bag.
Rearview
Next time, we'd bring the kids with us into wine country and extend our time there. Hermanus having visited once already, could be left off the itinerary.
