Ready and Roam / Kauai, Hawaii
Marie Pocock works as a paralegal by trade but is also the passionate creator of The Harriet Ave Project, which works with farmers and gardeners to transition from industrial farming practices, to regenerative practices. She's a certified yoga instructor and functional nutrition coach. Her travel guides allow for a slower pace when traveling: long hikes in nature, staying in one place for longer, and getting to know the locals. However when the mood strikes, jetting through Japan on the Shinkansen isn't out of the question. She lives in South Minneapolis with her favorite travel companion, British expat husband Nick, and their two black labs, Maggie Mae and George (aka Georgy).
Where?
Kauai, HawaiiFirst off, buy the book “Kauai Revealed”. It’s a must for helping you plan your journey, and time, in Kauai and the author is actually funny! We first discovered “the Garden Isle” of Hawaii thanks to friends who invited us along on a trip. We knew instantly it would be a place we would want to return. The lushness, the topography, the beauty of the ocean. It’s hard not to completely let go.
When should we go?
The perfect time to visit is really anytime. However, you’ll find the best travel deals and less crowds in late spring or early autumn. The temperatures are moderate all year long, and Kauai is known as the wettest place on earth. Literally, hello waterfalls! The wettest season is Nov-March, and rain showers are a regular daily visitor. That said, the island is also surrounded by sunshine, with more than 240 sunny days a year.
How do we get there?
The easiest way to get there from MSP is through Seattle on Delta. Shhhhh, don’t tell too many people that. You can leave MSP mid-morning, arrive in Lihue by evening, and sippin’ Mai Tais before you know it.
Tell us something we don’t know?
Hawaii residents have a lot of superstitions. From ‘don’t whistle at night’ or you’ll summon the night marchers (aka the ghosts of ancient Hawaiian warriors); to don’t ‘take any fruits, especially a banana, on a fishing trip it’s an ill-omen.’
“The island can be one spooky melting pot.”
Legend also has it that if you take any of the natural minerals (including lava rock, sand or dirt) from where Pele (the volcano goddess) placed it, she will curse you, bringing you bad luck. While many people believe this to be a superstition, Hawaii receives several packages of returned lava rock from tourists who claim misfortune post possession. Returning what belongs to Pele is believed to be the only way to break the curse. The Story of Pele is an interesting one, worth a google search to learn more. The longer we were there, the more we believed. Particularly if you take on our mindset, that the key to visiting Kauai is to become part of the island while you’re there. From the mountains that surround you to the secluded beaches that bound the island, don’t just visit it, embrace it. The whole island mentality taught us to be kind to Pele. When you experience Hawaii with the attitude that everything utilized there, stays there, - it helps shape your mindset during your stay.
Where should we stay in Kauai?
We always recommend a VRBO vacation home, because it's so much more identifiable with where you are in the world when you stay at a house that was built for it.
That last couple of times we went to Kauai we stayed at The Palmwood, and now we can’t imagine ever going anywhere else. Nestled on a secluded 5-acre estate in the Moloa’a hills in the north shore, it’s a bed-and-breakfast, but with a personal touch you will not find at the major resorts. It’s also very healing. The owners, Eddi and Steve, are like the cool aunt and uncle you’ll wish you had. A style of hospitality inspired by the country inns found in the mountains of Japan (Eddie’s mom is from Japan so you can feel the authentic kinship in her cooking and her minimalist Japanese decor). Best of all: Auntie Eddi makes the very, very best breakfast with local ingredients. Don’t take our word for it, just read the hundreds of reviews!
That being said, if you prefer a hotel we have stayed at the Kauai Beach Resort and can assure you that it’s perfectly reasonably priced for a family stay (because the Palmwood isn’t for kids). We also happen to believe the north side of the island is the best side to stay, unfortunately many of the family resorts are on the south side. Whatever you decide, you can’t go wrong -- even the worst property will be surrounded by the most spectacular scenery you’ve ever seen.
What should we do?
There’s an abundance of exploring to do on this small island, from its beautiful waterfalls to its isolated beaches. Most of our adventures are based on the north shore, which we feel is the most tranquil side of the island.
Topping our list of favorites is a helicopter tour over the Napali Coast (and riding with the doors OFF is mandatory!). We went through Jack Harter Helicopters and had an unforgettable experience. Another favorite memory was adventuring through the Princeville Ranch, which is in the process of transforming into 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay. We opted for a day hike which included repelling across a waterfall into a gorgeous valley for a picnic lunch but you can also horseback ride through the property.
Other highlights include a hike to the Queens Bath, which is one of the most picturesque places you’ll likely swim in all of Hawaii. However it comes with a major asterisk, which refers to only being safely accessible on calm water days. Locals heavily highlight the dangers of going there. If you truly want to learn about visiting the Queens Bath, read through the pages of ‘Kauai Revealed’ to get the best and the worst of the Queen’s Bath. On a clear day you can’t beat it, but keep in mind it’s not an excursion for those with children.
Rtip: Schedule your Princeville activities in the afternoon so you can finish up with a cocktail overlooking the shores of the stunning Hanalei Bay at the upscale resort.
There are so many beaches accessed only after a 10-15min walk so it’s easy to find an unpopulated beach to relax on. Every beach in Hawaii is public and you never know what wonders you might stumble upon. This last time we meandered on to our favorite beach (Larsen's Beach on the north east corner near The Palmwood), we found an endangered Hawaiian Monk Seal (there’s only approx. 14,000 left of these in the world)! What an incredible discovery!
“This epitomizes what Kauai is all about. Embrace the island and it will embrace you back.”
The further north you drive along the highway, the more you leave behind the western world. It’s here you’ll find a true Kauai, dotted with smoothie and fruit stands and casual eateries. I’d tell you to head north of Kapa’a towards the towns of Kilauea and Hanalei. Make your way to Tunnels and Ke’e Beach (pronounced Keh-AY), located at the end of the road — it’s literally the farthest you can drive on the north shore. Here you will find the most magnificent sunsets where you feel like you’re sitting on the edge of the world. To protect these beautiful spaces advance reservations are now required, but it’s worth the forethought.
Rtip: While in Kauai you must catch a few waves. If it’s on your bucket list, consider taking surf lessons from Poipu Beach Surf School, great for all ages.
On the western side of the island you will find the Waimea Canyon, referred to as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Although smaller in size, the expansive views are just as breathtaking. "Waimea" is Hawaiian for "reddish water," referring to the deep color of the rocky canyon and the hue the water takes on as it runs through. Start in the town of Waimea on Waimea Canyon Drive, travel North to Waimea Canyon State Park and the Puu Ka Pele Forest Reserve, making stops at the lookouts for incredible views of the coast. Continue to Koke'e State Park to hike Cliff Canyon Trail and stop at the Canyon lookout to take in the expansive views of red, rocky valley.
And finally, one of my all time favorite tours was the Allerton Botanical Gardens. It was once a private estate, full of fountains, lush greenery and interesting flowers and fruits. It’s also home to the famous Moreton Bay fig trees that were featured in the movie “Jurassic Park”! Tours of the garden are guided and normally last two to three hours.
What should we eat?
Our Kauai trips normally involve a little more relaxed approach to dining, as opposed to the more polished, formal or scheduled meals. If you’re looking for a higher-end, classic white table cloth restaurant then we recommend the Beach House, and Merriman’s Fish House (reserve a table on the lanai) — both are south, in Koloa. We also really enjoy the tapas at Restaurant Bar Acuda on the north-end of the Island.
Wherever you decide to go, try some local fish. Look for grilled Monchong or Aku which is similar to Ahi tuna but much more flavorful. If you come across Kona Crab, not a fish, but fresh seafood, don’t pass it up- their season is short and very regulated.
For a more organic and far more informal dining, we stick to the North Shore; Hanalei Poke for a casual picnic affair, and the Hanalei Bread Company which is also great for pre-packed takeaway, from the same owners of Bar Acuda. For dessert grab a sweet treat at Wishing Well Shave Ice.
If you want to avoid crowds in Hanalei, check out Kilauea for simple offerings without the congestion. For example the Healthy Hut Food co-op — the perfect grab-and-go for beach days. That’s also where you’ll find Paco Taco’s Foodtruck, and the Kilauea Fish Market.
The Japanese Grandma’s Cafe in the town of Hanapepe was one of our favorite lunch spots and they share a space with a super cute local boutique. Both wonderful adds before or after the Allerton Botanical Gardens.
Rtip: we would be remiss not to mention co-founder Katie Lang’s favorite quick lunch in Kauai, at Puka Dog. You choose a sausage or veggie dog, they serve it in the warm toasty puka bun with a garlic lemon secret sauce, and your choice of a variety of relish.
Where can we grab a drink?
Our favorite coffee and smoothies were of course made by Eddi at the Palmwood, however when we didn’t have the luxury of Eddi’s hospitality, we found wonderful coffee at Java Kai in Kapa’a. That’s also where we found Kauai Juice Company one morning post yoga at the Hanali Yoga Studio.
Our most fun evenings were spent at Tahiti Nui near Hanalei Beach. We felt like they had the very best drinks (especially the Mai Tai), live music and a genuine Kauai feel. Inside you’ll find pictures of George Clooney from when he filmed the Descendants, but more importantly, you’ll discover a low key bar that is full of local music and happiness. Very much worth the spectacular drive from where we were staying in Kilauea.
Where can we do some shopping?
Inevitably there’s always a Kauai hat or t-shirt to buy, but we recommend saving your money for the tours, restaurants and Luaus! We enjoyed a peek around Shipwrecked in the town of Kapaa, as well as the Historic Kong Lung Market Center, on the road to the lighthouse (a fun stop in its own right). There you will find the Banana Patch (for local pottery) and the Aloha Spice Company. On Friday evenings from 5-9 you’ll find the Hanapepe Friday Art Night filled with local vendors. We heard great things, but sadly never made it.
What is the can’t miss item from your itinerary?
Hard to choose just one! A trip to Larsen’s Beach, a hike at the Princeville Ranch and a helicopter ride around the island. This trifecta will have you feeling like you really experienced Kauai.
What would you do differently?
I would plan to spend more time in Hā’ena State Park at the end of the road on the north side of the island. More time sitting still on the beach, reading a book and enjoying the vista that’s laid out ahead of me. Kauai is simply beautiful.
What should we bring with us?
We try to buy from a Certified B corporation or local and small businesses whenever possible. The certified B companies are businesses that balance purpose and profit, and are legally required to consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment. Klean Kanteen is a family owned B corp and in my opinion make the best stainless steel water bottles for travel. Another must for Kauai’s ever changing weather, is a travel jacket, like the Patagonia Houdini Air Jacket that folds up into the size of your palm and is also certified B. For snacks on the go the Birdling Day Tripper, is equipped with a zippered mesh bottom to shake out sand and an insulated pouch to keep things cold. Allbirds Women’s Wool Runners are super comfortable, as well as a certified B corp. The Tulum Beach Towel by The Beach People is made in AUS of the highest quality and stays conscious of impacting the environment as little as possible. And you can’t forget sunscreen. Please be sure your sunscreen does not contain oxybenzone and octinoxate. These ingredients cause coral bleaching and coral death, which causes the reef structure to collapse. At this rate, as it continues, it’s estimated that coral reefs around the world could be mostly wiped out by 2050. Because we receive around 80% of our oxygen from the ocean, this will affect everyone no matter where we live. Our favorite brands that do not contain those ingredients include Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen (sport) and Badger.
A note from Marie about climate change and travel:
While traveling is hard on the planet, the world still beckons. It’s hard to speak about Hawaii (or travel) without speaking about the elephant in the room that is climate change. However ominous, I am still deeply hopeful, and grateful, as mother earth will always heal herself, if we let her. It isn’t about traveling less (or shrinking ourselves until we have no carbon footprint to leave). Instead it’s about actively and consciously leaving larger footprints in innovative ways that will bring things back into balance (like regenerative gardening for example!). Therefore, I hope to leave you with a few (hopefully new) recommendations to offset global warming when traveling:
(1) Get Grounded. A bit hippie, yet nevertheless a proven jet-lag remedy. Start to foster a deep relationship with mother earth which reminds us that humans are a part of nature, not seperate. Upon arrival, unplug, take off your shoes and feel the earth beneath your feet. Go for a hike in the forest. Swim in her waters. Watch the sunrise and sunset. When we connect to mother earth we undoubtedly start to connect with (and heal) ourselves and our planet in intuitive ways. All of our answers lay beneath our feet and with the connections we have to ourselves, each other and the planet. As they say, there’s no wi-fi in the forest, but we’ll find a better connection.
(2) Eat Less Meat + Animal Products. Globally, meat production generates more greenhouse gases than the entire transportation section combined. Cutting back is an easy (and cost effective!) way to help offset our carbon footprint when flying and traveling.
(3) Travel Light. When possible, fly direct (who likes layovers anyway?), pack as light as possible, slow down and stay longer in one place.
(4) Educate. Read Drawdown: The Most Comprehensive Plan Ever Proposed to Reverse Global Warming by Paul Hawken - and watch ‘The Farmers Footprint’
— Mahalo! MarieIn case you’re not familiar, there is a beautiful Hawaiian word: mālama. It can mean to cherish, preserve, and protect. We would be delighted to help mindful travelers mālama during their stay in Hawaii by organizing an enriched visit, immersing themselves in authentic experiences that connect them with a sense of place and culture.
