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Roam Guide / Dahab, Egypt

Photo Credit: Peggy Anke

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Where did you go during your time in Egypt?

Dahab, Egypt 

Egypt is a bucket list destination for sure! I mean who hasn't dreamed of standing face to face with the Great Pyramids? With some of the oldest landmarks in the world you can literally spend weeks in a jam packed itinerary without even beginning to explore the lesser known areas of the country. I was lucky enough to spend three months traveling around this magical land and to my surprise it was not all desert and mummies. The Nile River creates lush oases throughout the sandy country, and the Red Sea is home to the most incredible marine world, only inches under the water’s surface. While I consider myself an Egyptian aficionado, after all my time exploring, I really want to highlight my spectacular visit to Dahab on the Sinai Peninsula near the Red Sea.

Dahab is the perfect hippie backpacker town, and it hasn’t yet been overrun by tourists. It’s a yogi, swimmers and sunbathers paradise and a wonderful contrast to the hustle and bustle of Cairo. It is however, in a pretty remote part of the world so I don't expect anyone to have it on their radar unless they have planned to spend an extended period of time in Egypt. On the other hand, I’d say if you can, you should make a deliberate effort to visit this off-the-beaten-path, beach paradise.

"Bohemian culture, pink mountains, chill vibes, incredible diving, and endless beach cafes. Dahab, Egypt is the best kept secret in the world"


When should we go?

Best: February through May, October and November. 

Egypt feels pretty hot for half of the year and is otherwise nice with a very low chance of precipitation. Early spring is the best time to beat the heat and the crowds. The busiest month for tourism is January, which is also when it’s the coolest, followed by July and August, when it’s the warmest. In August, regular highs hover around 98°F and night time lows rarely drop below 80. Prices for hotels and flights will be more expensive during these months.

How do we get there?

I had the luxury of time while I was in Egypt, which also meant I had flexibility. There are no transportation companies to take tourists to Dahab, which protects the exclusivity of the remote town. However it’s only a short drive from the popular resort town of Sharm El- Sheikh where there is an airport. From there you can take public transportation (taxi, bus) or car hire, roughly two hours to Dahab.

Because here are only a handful of ways to arrive in Dahab, you’ll find it’s reserved for only the truest boho beach seekers and native Egyptians. Likely the most exciting mode of transit, and our method of arrival was to walk into Egypt from Israel! Trust us, it’s a bucket list method of arrival and totally safe! Fly into the town of Eilat, Israel and walk into Taba, Egypt. The town of Eilat, Israel is an upscale expat beach town mostly filled with Russian tourists. You can spend a day wandering the beach and shopping- then head to the boarder. The boarder crossing feels like passing through an upscale hotel, with duty-free shopping and private cars for hire. Once you arrive in Taba you can spend the evening in the private beach town or choose from several desert campsites between Taba and Dahab. If your strapped for time head straight to Dahab via bus which is approximately 2.5 hours long. 

Rtip: If you are concerned about safety and proficiency we suggest you connect with our friend Mohamed Taher to arrange transport and any guided adventures you wish to add.


Where did you stay?

Dahab is quite small, only about 5 miles in length, which leaves you with just a handful of good options. An Airbnb is typically your best choice and will offer private beachside accommodations. Along with the exchange rate, you won't be paying more than $50 a night for luxurious beachside living. Personally, my preference is Beit Theresa Chalets on the northern half of town, where there are a few less bars and restaurants so you are in a true oasis.

If you are looking for a budget friendly hotel with incredible diving instructors, I would point you to Seven Heaven. This two star accommodation offers a great free breakfast, discounted diving (and dive lessons for people who can't even swim!), and it’s in the middle of everything. Plus it’s only around $12 per night. Even if you’d prefer to stay somewhere else this is still an awesome dive school. There are dozens around town but the staff here is very respectable and they take their time to make sure you feel safe.

I have not personally stayed here, but I’ve heard great things if you’re looking for a more traditional resort. Located on the southern side of Dahab, it’s in a calm lagoon and is in a prime spot for kitesurfing lessons. Still only a short bike ride from the "city" center, this spot is also far enough away from the shops and restaurants so you'll enjoy peaceful, quiet nights. The lagoon is also a great spot for stargazing, snorkeling, and finding handmade Bedouin jewelry on the beach fronts.


What should we do?

Dahab is an authentic and low-key Egyptian town with a focus on environmental preservation. The perfect thing to do while you’re here is actually nothing. Let time devour you while you gaze at the pink mountains of Saudi Arabia in the distance, sip coffee, and smoke Sheesha (Hooka). If sitting still isn’t your thing, there are certainly activities to keep you busy.

Snorkeling & Diving

The Red Sea is home to the best and cheapest diving in the world (you can even get scuba certified for pennies). Seriously if you've ventured all the way to Dahab you should probably give it a try. A three day, six-dive course cost me around $230 while single dives with instructors and equipment might only run you $20, If you've given diving a shot and it's really not your thing, you are off the hook and don't worry! Incredible snorkeling lies only a few feet off the coastline on all of the main beaches. Marine life preservation and low tourism rates keep the coral reefs in perfect condition so you’re sure spot octopus, sea horses, and lionfish right under your nose.

Hiking

You can find unique and breathtaking hikes only minutes from town. Hiking the sandy mountains is an experience like no other and the views of Saudi Arabia in the distance will make you feel like a true exotic explorer.

Beaches

Dahab is a small town, quite literally walk-able top to bottom in 90 minutes. That’s why planning ahead is not really required. Beaches are more private here which allows for the truest kind of escape. Stroll into town and stop at the first cafe or beach that catches your eye. Trust me, you can’t go wrong! At the most northern part of Dahab you’ll find the beach named the “Blue Lagoon” which has calm water begging for swimming and kite surfing. Towards the center of town you’ll find a concentration of beach cafes. Grab a coffee and a lounge chair and soak up the rays for hours on end. Finally, the mid to southern-most part of town is where you’ll find the best snorkeling. Bike rentals are plentiful and you’ll always cover more ground on wheels, so if you’re looking to add variety to your exploration that’s always a good option.


Abu Galum,

If Dahab isn’t remote enough for you, Abu Galum is calling your name. Ras Abu Galum is an Egyptian oasis about 30 minutes north of Dahab. The secluded beach town is home to only a handful of campsites, cafes, and lounges. You can spend the day or stay overnight to experience the most incredible display of stars you have ever seen. With no hotels, homes, or artificial light the star lit sky is out of this world. Rent a campsite from one of the Bedouin (local) people and your hut, sleeping bag, mats, blankets, and pillows will be included for around $3 per night.

There are two main ways to arrive to this secret beach town. Starting in Dahab, you can rent a taxi or drive north for about 30 min across the single desert road to Abu Galum. This should cost you about $10. This route takes you on the main road and surpasses other beaches along the way.

Alternatively and highly recommended, you can take a taxi or bicycle half way between Dahab and Abu Galum, to the Blue Hole. This tiny beach town is home to one of the most famous diving / snorkeling spots in the world. An enormous crater in the ocean floor that is consumed by fish and coral. Spend a few hours here to swim then continue on to Abu Galum. You can either hike to the beach town (highly highly recommended) or take a boat. The hike will take along the coast where you can explore incredible landscapes and collect shells galore (approx. 2-3 hours depending how many times you stop.) The boat ride follows the same path, but will take you only 20 minutes to arrive. We hiked to Abu Galum and took the boat back. The perfect plan for the indecisive traveler.  


Where should we eat?

If you are vegetarian or vegan there are dozens of restaurants that serve up incredible Middle Eastern dishes and international cuisine. But don’t worry- meat lovers are not forgotten. Load up on $1 shawarma sandwiches and all the fresh fish you can imagine.

Although planning your days in Dahab is not necessary, it's always a safe bet to have a few good food options on your radar. Given that Dahab is a small beach town, most restaurants do not accept reservations. But waits are never long and beach beers are always an option if you find yourself in a que. For starters, check out Ralph’s German Bakery for breakfast pastries. Although expat owned (if the name didn’t give it away) the food is amazing. Everyday Cafe is on the more expensive side ($10), but they have a falafel breakfast that’s large enough for five people and an incredible barista. Call me crazy but falafel is an awesome breakfast and Egyptians have adapted to our weird ways of consumption and serve it at all hours of the day. The best falafel can be found at Yum Yum restaurant or in the locals central marketplace at Asala Square (you won’t miss it). Rule of thumb is the more run down the street vendor, the better the falafel. Prices should be around $1.50 a sandwich.

Popular spots in the center of town include Red Cat and Athanor which both serve trendy menus of international cuisine along with plenty of vegetarian options. For something unique visit Slow Food because it’s one of my favorites. You must put in your order in a day early, so the chef can prepare the meal all day. Seating only accommodates like five people so get there early. The Vegan Lab is another personal fav. as you would NEVER guess the food is non-meat and non- dairy. Finally, the best Sheesha (Hooka) lounge that you MUST try while in Egypt is at Yambo Cafe. For something a little more local, a “no-name” cafe lives directly across the street which has backgammon and BYOF (bring your own food). Last but not least is Sheesh Beesh Cafe which has great Sheesha and the national dish, Koshari… a vegetarian pasta/ bean/ friend onion bowl of deliciousness not to be missed.

Where should we drink?

For coffee try one of the endless cafes along the beach. Although Egyptians call it, Turkish coffee, they have perfected this savory espresso delicacy.

Dahab is a very peaceful destination which does not invite much nightlife to the area. Most restaurants don’t stay open past 10pm given that most people rise early to see the breathtaking Dahab sunrise. However, there are a handful of bars if you're looking to relax under the Egyptian moonlight. Check out Yalla Bar or Blue Beach Bar for oceanfront views and Arabian dancing. Also, given that Egypt is a Muslum country, nightlife is not the main attraction of travel to this boho beach town. We recommend grabbing a 6-pack or a bottle of wine and sitting on the beach while gazing at the Saudia Arabian mountains in the distance.

What is the one can't miss item on your itinerary?

I cant say it enough, you really must try diving. The Red Sea has (in my opinion) the best coral reefs in the world, and given Dahab's remote location, the plants and wildlife are almost completely untouched by tourism. Seahorses, octopus, tiger fish, anemones, sparkling corals, and millions upon millions of fish. Not to mention diving in Dahab is the cheapest you'll ever come by. For $180 you can get the full open water certificate which includes four dives and every additional dive will only cost you $14.00. Dive masters can complete their advanced 20 dive certification for only $700. I completed my course at the Seven Heaven Dive School and they can recommend the best dive spots and arrange transportation with the instructors if needed. My favorites were Blue Hole and Canyon.


What should we shop for, or bring back with us?

I've traveled to so many places and met a multitude of artists who create amazing things, but I don't always get the opportunity to share their goods with a larger audience. Below you’ll find several products from artists I met while I was in Dahab last year.

Tell us what you’d do differently next time?

This is a hard one! I think I'd recommend staying longer. It's truly a tranquil and authentic place to visit, which is hard to come by in a world of connectivity and technology. Dahab is full of kind people- locals & foreigners, looking to meet and enjoy the beautiful landscape with you. Beaches as far as the eye can see. With more time I would have visited some of the less popular beaches and truly escaped it all.

What should we take on the trip?

Traditional beachwear is completely acceptable in Dahab. Although a Muslim country, Dahab is extreamly liberal and full of like-minded young people. You'll find Egyptians and expats hanging in bikinis and lounge wear alike. Bring hiking shoes if you'd like to explore the sandy mountains along the coast. If you're a diver or want to learn, equipment is very cheap so no need to drag that along. With hot days, the desert brings cold nights so don't forget a sweatshirt and long pants for after dark.

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Tell us something we don't know?

If you ask independent travelers and year long backpackers, Dahab isn't considered a remote getaway. However, for the typical vacationer it’s definitely off the beaten path. The main reason it remains such a secret is because of Egypt's unfortunate reputation of being a "dangerous" destination. But I am here to tell you that is NOT an accurate representation of the country. The Sinai Peninsula, where Dahab is located, has a history of conflict with Israel and was the site of bombings in 2004. Since then there has not been extended conflict but the US still labels it as a "no-go zone". Slowly over the past few years backpackers, divers, and beach lovers have settled back into Dahab. Egyptians label it as the hip Cairo getaway while expats have opened cafes and hotels for permanent stay. English is very widely spoken amongst visitors worldwide, so there is no reason not to add Dahab to your bucket list!


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